Our Walk Photos
Never Never Report
Coast to Coast - UK
Day 19 – Hawkster to Robin Hood Bay - last report
As the day was such a short one the urgency to get an early start was not on us but even though Michael had said departure would be at 10am we were all ready to go by 9.30 and headed off. We almost took a wrong turn towards Whitby through a paddock but rectified that and hit the coast for our last stint into RHB along the cliff tops with views of the very serene sea considering the thunder and lightning of the previous day. Many photos of cliffs, sea, completing walkers and eventually Robin Hood Bay itself ensued. Our walk led us down the street that our accommodation was in and although we were to be in two establishments they were next door to each other. We advised the B&B operators of our arrival and headed down to the water for the toe dipping and stone throwing rituals with our added one of cracking open the James Cook Brewery ale and bottle of red wine supplemented with Stilton Cheese and biscuits all at the water edge. Rain started and shortened our festivities so we headed back in RHB central and the music and dancing, it being Saturday. The rain sent most of them indoors and the very small pubs, all 3 of them in the lower part of RHB were packed to the rafters. So, with no room at the Inn, we headed for the quaint but excellent fish and chippery for combinations of Haddock, Cod, mushy peas, chips and pickled onion – delicious.
I made the comment to Paula that if you could duplicate Robin Hood Bay anywhere it would attract large numbers of tourists but it would be impossible under modern building codes to build in the quaintness of narrow, steep, cobblestoned, winding streets with houses that are on top of each other yet separate. I was shocked to learn that the sea wall, built to save the old village, was too late for that much again of the village that had already been claimed by the sea.
So it is with sadness that this walk comes to an end but it will be great to look back on it and the achievement that three completed all the walk, one all but two days, another all but 3 days, one who achieved more than anyone expected considering the knee operation just prior to start and the regret that one did not get to the starting point. All will have different recollections and views but we all will go away feeling that we have achieved a milestone in our lives. I am sure it is the same for everyone who attempts it and the friendships are only strengthened by such an undertaking no matter what one’s ability is at the start.
Now off for a relaxing time to recuperate.
"A man travels the world over in search of what he needs, and returns home to find it"
as inscribed on a bench seat in Robin Hood Bay UK
Day 17 – Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge
The walk continued around the moors and the first feature that we came to was "Fat Betty" a stone structure just off the road. It was explained to us that tradition required visitors to leave something and in turn collect something from Fat Betty and as this only occurred as we approached I was left pondering on what I had that I could leave. I saw that many others had left sweets so I left a foot print and took away a load of rubbish hoping that Fat Betty would appreciate the clearing of her sight.
The next remarkable event was "The Mooning on the Moors"!
Whilst crossing the moors it occasionally happens that a call of nature must be answered and it was on this day that two unusual events transpired to occur simultaneously, and that was the 'call', for two of our female companions, that nature makes. The second was a wish that Wayne & Roger had been expressing for some time. As the ladies headed off on another track we assumed that it was their 'call of nature' and of course took up a position of watch – not unlike Meer cats. Roger suggested that would it not be amusing if one of the planes that we had heard, but not been able to see, came roaring over the hill at low level. It was at that precise moment that Wayne exclaimed and gesticulated in the direction that we were look at the Tornado jet fast approaching at an altitude not much above our own. Of course this was the second wish, and with great joy, we watched as it approached, flew overhead and disappeared over the ridge behind us, but of course, to do this, we had swivelled around and were now facing, for a brief moment, in the opposite direction. Eyes averted we resumed our Meer cat lookout once again.
Later the RAF reported a mooning event on the moors.
Our arrival at Egton Bridge was via a circuitous route due to railway bridge works at Carr End and we approached the town from a direction that had us going back from whence we came. Our destination, on the other hand, was well received and although we had three rooms that were all very different the atmosphere and the dining were outstanding. Michael even had his wish to throw his frizbee forfilled after tea on the large lawn at the front of the residence. Barb & I once again ended up in the roof cavity with a bathroom that did not allow for 6 foot of person to stand and have a shower but I reluctantly had a bath and was impressed with the high flow of water rather than a slow fill that I had so often experience before - quite enjoyable.
We are now contemplating the end of the journey with mixed feelings.
Day 13 – Richmond to Oaktree Hill (Lovesome Hill Farm)
This was described as an easy day and looking at the contours it certainly seemed flat and only challenging in the length; of 13 miles (23Klms). I thought that it might have been a bit boring and comments had been made to me that this would be the case, but not so. As we walked out of Richmond we first crossed the River Swale which was flowing at a very fast pace and we had a new & different view of the Richmond (Riche Mont) Castle ruins as we looked up from that low level. It was certainly well placed to defend an aggressor.
I think we were all surprised by the rabbit population evident as we passed playing fields and parklands in the early morning. A slight misinterpretation of the maps had us climbing up onto a hill which afforded us some excellent views but required a bit of corrective navigation through an Army exercise area (no red flags flying fortunately) but caused us to only see from a distance what I assumed were further ruins of a place of interest. Our way now became ever muddier after the recent rains and from this less often used "Wainwright way" we returned to the allotted course and discovered that many feet make paths even more slippery. The growth that was a result of the recent warm weather and rain made the vegetation far taller and encroaching on the path and although most of it only caused moisture to migrate to us there were very tall stinging nettles and with diligent use of walking poles we were reasonable able to deflect them and their sting from our bare legs, but more of that later.
We re-crossed the river and proceeded down a good path with only moderately high grass and spied in the distance a Beach Umbrella but to our surprise it was not someone having a picnic in the rain but rather a checkpoint point for runners in a tri-athalon and, joy of joys, there were 200+ participants. We had only continued about 200 metres before the first runner passed us and we offered our encouragement not knowing that within a minutes or two he would pass us on his return. Then the procession escalated as more and more runners passed us and then returned. It was becoming rather congested so we retreated to a nearby road before coming back to another point on the track but at least at this time it was wider and we could negotiate the runners better.
Our journey took us to the small village of Streetlam that had won the 2006 "Yorkshire Village of the Year" award and we set ourselves up for lunch in a commemorative shelter covering a Well located on a road intersection. The village has a churchyard burial ground that contains the remains of one Henry Jenkins who is reported to have lived to the ripe old age of 169.
When we arrived in Danby Wiske (don't you just love the names) we headed straight for the White Swan pub for a pint as we thought that we had earned it having travelled through all that mud. Well one turned into two and so appropriately fortified we crossed over the bridge over the London to Edinburgh train line. On one of our maps we had spied a pathway that was directly to our overnight accommodation about 2 klms away and it would save us about a kilometre. So off we went and, although it was overgrown, we had met two Dutchmen at the pub who had walked it in the opposite direction that day and given a good report. Michael was a little dubious so I said I would lead and off we went. The 'public footpath' was VERY overgrown and I found that in my shorts I was soon doing battle with metre high stinging nettles but suitable numb from 2 pints of ale I ploughed on almost without a sting, or so I thought, until we emerged onto the final laneway to our overnight accommodation. As we sat down to remove our muddy and wet boots the 2 pints had started to wear off and when Barb offered yet another pint of Hobgoblin Ale I took it and consumed it with haste and the stinging miraculously stopped.
Once entering the lovely surroundings of the Lovesome Hill Farm B&B and knowing we were to be feasted with a roast for tea all was well.
Quote of the day - 'I don't feel pain --- unless it hurts' Wayne
The Pub at Bampton Grange is directly opposite a church and as it was Sunday morning that we departed we were able to enjoy several minutes of bell ringing as we assembled to head off. A local, beware of their directions, gave us directions to get back to the Coast to Coast track by using the pathway that went through the church grounds and on into a field. So off we innocent six went with the directions slowly dissolving in our minds and it was not long before our Australian bushbashing skills were called upon.
A hazzard not often encounted in Australia then began to have its influence on those of us who were wearing shorts - the dreaded stinging nettles. We walked beside, in and over a creek and eventually came across another path. Heading up a slope a jet of water from behind a stone shed alerted us to the presence of someone who may be able to help. It turned out to be a young lady who , with much murth, redirected us in the correct errors of our way. Back on track and some considerable time behind our schedule we eventually came to the correct C2C track (if there is such a thing).
This section of the walk took us passed Shap Abbey and into the town of Shap. Firstly, we were almost sucked into following a crowd of 30 walkers on a wrong path and secondly we made a very poor choice in eating location. As we walked through Shap the local pub beckoned us with the offer of a roast for 3.50 but Barb threw us into disarray with the thought of the time it might take to be served (probably correct) and we ended up in a field lane sheltering from the cold wind eating sandwiches. Just after this we had to cross the M6 using a flyover. The M6 at that point was a six lane highway.
After passing a large quarry we entered moorland and walked for approximately 6 kilometres bypassing an area marked on the map as Robin Hood's Grave - no explanation except wikipedia quotes "Robin Hood's Grave is a name given to a number of monuments in England which allegedly mark the last resting place of the legendary outlaw Robin Hood." Another walker has made this comment "After a nice sit down and some chocolate, we headed on once more passing by a large mound of stones known as Robin Hood's Grave - the second time Sherwood's famous son had supposedly made appearance on our walk, although why he'd be buried up here is frankly anyone's guess, and to most modern eyes the place would just look like what it actually was: a large, oversized cairn." Apparently the mystery continues.
The remainder of the walk into Orton was downhill and appreciated after what seemed a long day. We arrived about 5.00pm
Day 5 Grasmere to Patterdale
Leaving Grasmere, which has to be one of the most beautiful villages we had the challenge of locating Michael & Paula. A short walk into the village centre to collect some lunch and then a walk up some lanes eventually found their overnight stay at the edge of the village and on our way. The road was a main thoroughfare and we had about a mile to walk before heading off and up passing a disused town water supply made in the form of a large square but now empty except for a modern walking pole – conjecture ranged as to how it happened to be there.
The climb was steady and took until about noon to reach the top where we came across a lovely tarn and it was appropriate that we made that our lunch stop. It seemed that this was a junction of many tracks as walkers started appearing from all directions, some with dogs and other just trampers.
As was the climb, the descent took several hours but on moderate graded tracks. We entered the true farming area and stopped to watch a farmer and shearers tidying up a pen of sheep and their lambs after birthing.
The village of Patterdale boasted two pubs and it was at the first that we stopped to have a local beer before trying to find our overnight accommodation. The publican kindly offered to drive us to the farm and it was with much relief that the offer was accepted and we drove about ½ mile out of town.
Tea was back into town to the White Lion for a Ploughman’s lunch(?) in my case, lasagne for Barb and various other meals for the rest.
“Choose your companions carefully, you may have to eat them.” W.C. Sellar & R.J. Yeatman
Day 4 Rosthwaite to Grasmere
We set off with our wet weather gear on as the rain had started during the wee small hours and continued for most of the day until mid-afternoon. The terminology for the various features is still a bit of a mystery to me but here goes with our progress via the map. Firstly we proceeded along the Stonethwaite Beck (Valley) for several miles before starting our climb up the Greenup Gill until we came to the Lining Crag which had some of us using our hands for better purchase. We then headed across a marshy area before starting our descent down Flour Gill and across to a further descent down Far Easedale Gill.
Our time on the top was punctuated by scudding cloud that at times enveloped us and reduced visibility sufficient to mean that the party was in danger of the first and last people losing contact. Fortunately we had breaks that allowed us to see both the track and the odd cairn.
We subsequently learnt that it is policy in the area not to mark tracks so you need to have a reasonable skill in navigating from the map.
As you descend into areas that are more suitable for farming the scenery changes with more stone walls and laneways. All the laneways and paths we have been using are either right of way or public bridleways.
At the end of the days walk we become separated it two groups one on such a bridleway and that was the last we saw of Michael & Paula. Fortunately Wayne found Dorothy, Barb and I in the village and directed us to our overnight accommodation in a Quakers hostelry. Mike & Paula where housed elsewhere.
Among the therapeutic agents not to be found bottled up and labelled on our shelves is Travelling; a means of prevention, of cure, and of restoration that has been found in all ages. Daniel Drake, Western medical & Physical Journal 1827
Day 3 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
This day’s walk was to be 14.5 miles or 23 kilometres and the ladies thought that this would be a good lay day and arranged to travel by bus to Rosthwaite. As it was going to be such a long walk with a fair bit of climbing it was decided to head off early and it was about 6.00 am when we began to congregate for the starting time of 7.30 for breakfast. These English breakfasts are something to behold with offerings of salmon, eggs, smoked haddock, full English breakfast of black sausage, tomato, mushrooms, baked beans, bacon & fried egg.
The walk around Lake Ennerdale, although rocky, was pleasant and although the mountains had clouds over the tops we experienced periods of sunshine and clear skies. A couple of lads from Liverpool caught up to us and we continued to see them at various times throughout the day – they are also doing the C2C walk.
At Black Sail for lunch we were surprised and gratified that through an honour system we were able to have a tea or coffee at the YHA hostel and availed ourselves of the offer – 50p for tea and £1 for a plunger coffee – luxury.
The merriment abated as we started the climb out of the valley up to the rolling high country before a descent via a slate mine with much evidence of mining over a very long time.
We were all impressed by the stone walls marking out paddocks although we later learnt that they were ordered by government officials who just drew grids on a map ignoring that some were them very high up the sides of valleys and in very difficult places to make such walls.
It was with some surprise that I learnt that we had a budding geologist in our party when having lunch and a feature opposite was pointed out to me. It was a slip of stone with a fan shape at the lower end and it was described to me thus 'that is alluvial schist rock coming down to what is described as a fan and it is this that in nature is said to be when schist hits the fan'.
Day 2 Cleator to Ennerdale
Although this was to be a short day of 9 miles we set off fairly early having woken to the sun at 4.45am.
Top up on supplies at the small store in Cleator and headed for the Hills and of course a climb. The first was from 75 up to 352 metres at a steady pace. A section of forest was appreciated and although there was low cloud we had glimpes of the towns down in the valley with shafts of sunligh passing over. The sheep appear to not be farmed for wool as they are mostly loosing the coats in a natural de-foliating manner and look quite strange with large areas of bar skin in varying colours and the remains of tufts of wool hanging off them. A ragtag lot.
On our decent we came across a short cut down, and I mean DOWN, through a forest. It was really challenging especially for those with dicky knees to start with. We meandered through a number of valleys before desending into Ennerdale which has a community hotel and our pub for the night, The Shepherds Alms, yes, not Arms. The food was excellent and rated as the best so far.
See photos in Away Walks in the Photo Gallery
Quote "The difference between landscape and landscape is small,but there is a difference between the beholders." Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882) from Essays, 1844
A few quotes to start the journey: "The trouble with many travellers is that they take themselves along" John Prescott from Aphorisms and Other Observations.
"I should not feel confident in venturing on a journey in a foreign country without a companion. I should want at intervals to hear the sound of my own language." William Hazlitt from On Going a Journey
Day 1 St Bees to Cleator 8 miles
Wayne selecting a stone to carry across England on the Coast to Coast.
6 congregated at Richmond on Sunday afternoon prior to the journey to St Bees on Monday to commence the walk at about 11.00am. As David had not made the rendevous on Sunday we were expecting him to perhaps be at the setting off point on Monday, but he wasn't. So after a call to Sherpa we set off in the best weather that you could expect to start a walk. After collecting our stones from the beach we climbed the cliffs and headed off to the Light-house before our walk into the rolling hills towards Cleator. On the way we had a beer at a pub that was supposed to be closed and afternoon tea in the garden of an enterprising lady who was raising funds for the community in which she lived.
During our walk we learnt that David had been unable to make the flight over and was not a starter for the walk, so it was with some saddness when we realised that we would only be a party of 6.
A selection of past epic activities
The Walls of Jerusalem to Lake St Clair
via
“THE NEVER NEVER”
Noel Hayward
During the seven years I lived in Tasmania the Walls of Jerusalem were known to me as being a lovely area, but as they were almost on the opposite side of Tasmania (there was no Cradle Link Road in those days) did not warrant the travel required to go walking there. After all, there were more than enough beautiful walks to do and majestic rivers to kayak on the West Coast without spending a day driving to get to the Walls. read more...
Sunraysia Bushwalkers take to the high seas
Whitsunday walk & sail
The Whitsunday Islands are a long way North of here. The flight from Brisbane to the nearest airport of Proserpine took as long as the initial Adelaide -Brisbane leg. As a result the party enjoyed mild subtropical winter weather over the two weeks of sailing read more...
11-12thJune 2011